Oxfords may have a reputation as the footwear of the old-money elite, but that doesn’t mean they can’t still mix things up when the situation requires. These chocolate-hued, water-repellent suede units are a case in point, with a decidedly un-traditional look that pairs much better with jeans and chinos, or adds a jaunty lean to more buttoned-up ensembles. They’re also ethically made in a Colombian workshop by master craftsmen, which makes their ultra-reasonable price feel even more of a win.
Best Upgrade Oxford Shoes: Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Cap Toe Oxford
Materials: European calfskin leather | Construction: Goodyear welt
As one of the oldest American shoe brands, Allen Edmonds has been a fixture in the menswear space for generations. It has expanded their production overseas but have kept its Washington-state-based production for its flagship models like the Park Avenue series which blends classic design details like the cap toe and almond shape with high-quality construction like European calfskin uppers, Goodyear welted construction, and cork footbeds. The bottom line? For the price and quality, it’s a solid choice for any closet, especially for those of us looking to grab our first pair of nice dress shoes.
Best Budget Wingtip Oxford Shoes: G.H. Bass Monogram Double Brogue Wingtip
Materials: Leather | Construction: Goodyear welt
Sometimes a plain Oxford is a little too plain. Wingtip brogues on the other hand have that panache and rugged charm while maintaining a distinguished quality. On a budget, that could be hard to find. But the label known for exposing the world to loafers, G.H.Bass, has you covered. Its Monogram line of shoes features upgraded, resolable construction, timeless silhouettes, and an ultra affordable pricepoint. While the leathers leave something to be desired, and the finer details are spare, they make for a nearly unbeatable entry point that will last you until you’re ready to make the big step up to something more substantial.
Best Oxford Shoes for Wedding Season: Morjas Black Patent Oxfords
Materials: Patent Leather | Construction: Goodyear welt
If the dress code says black tie, just wearing any old black shoes (even really nice ones) simply won’t cut it. The unmistakable sheen of a patent leather Oxford, on the other hand, will put your shoes on par with the rest of your ensemble, guiding your sleekest black-tie fits to new sartorial heights so that all you have to worry about is not outshining the groom. This pair from Morjas—a newer, but already deeply trusted Scandi shoemaker—marries a slightly more approachable price point with all the hallmarks of a Cleverley or a Crockett.
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What to Look for in a Great Pair of Oxford Shoes
The most important feature in Oxford shoes are the uppers. They should be made of high-quality, full-grain leathers without blemishes or grain correction (a fancy term for leather sanding which buffs out the imperfections from lower-quality hides). Oxford shoes should be made with either Goodyear welted or Blake stitch construction, both of which allow for cobblers to resole them easily, thereby extending the shoes’ lifespan significantly.
The final element is fit. While most shoes are made on a mass scale to fit as wide of a customer base as possible, artisanal and independent shoemakers will make custom shoe lasts for their clientele to ensure a completely bespoke fitting experience. Steven Taffel, owner of NYC shoe emporium Leffot, says the top tier of Oxfords involve a great deal of handmade details, “meticulous finishing such as hand burnishing, beveled waists, closed channel soles, clean sole edges. Flawless stitching, tight, and even, with high SPI (stitches per inch) especially visible on the welt (sole).” Much of that artisanship is seen on the inside of the shoe with details like full leather linings, cork footbeds for comfort and a custom fit, and steel shanks for support.